Westmont’s Citrus Diner (844 Ogden Ave.) is the perfect example of the modern diner: bright colors, natural light and a shift of the classic “diner food” idea of greasy comfort dishes to healthy, organic choices. Despite the modern food and decor, it stays true to its title with a friendly, intimate and family-owned atmosphere.

Parking and seating are amply available, with the only real crowding happening during late morning on weekends. The orders are served with a similarly short wait, and our wait during a morning rush wasn’t significant.

An immediate draw was the diner’s namesake orange juice ($2.55), which did not disappoint. Freshly squeezed juices are a staple for many breakfast locations, but Citrus’s is their bread and butter and the one menu item you shouldn’t miss.

The other highlight was the Calypso omelet ($9.55), featuring bacon, avocado, cheese, sour cream and a side of salsa. The bold combination of flavors made for a nice departure from the more mellow dishes that organic-themed restaurants tend to favor.

The rest of the menu lacked the same charm of these two items. The French toast ($7.65) and Bacon Pan skillet ($8.95) were attractive to look at and by no means bad, but lacked organic appeal in flavor. Other dishes like the Route 66, an egg, biscuits and gravy platter ($8.66), are almost indistinguishable from typical diner fare, defeating one of the restaurant’s biggest draws in the first place.

Similarly, toast and breakfast potatoes are included with each meal, but replacing either of those items with fresh fruit ($.95) proved well worth it. The delicious organic mix was a big improvement over the other forgettable sides.

Particularly disappointing was the “Oy, Vey!” breakfast sandwich ($8.55): a grilled bagel with tomato, eggs, cheese and ham or bacon. Falling apart after just a few bites, the uninspiring sandwich’s flavors clashed in both taste and texture, resulting in an item neither delicious nor easy to eat.

The menu’s inconsistencies were still no match for the excellent omelets, pleasantly calm atmosphere and generally good-tasting food. Citrus Diner also serves lunch, but arriving after the breakfast rush presents an uncomfortably small window before the 2:30 p.m. daily closing time.

The Bottom Line: Citrus Diner’s organic charm and attractive layout make it a good choice for a sit-down breakfast, as long as you’re careful about what you order.

3.5/5 paws